I keep slipping in and out of cooking, it’s some kind of bizarre me-seasonal minor-bi-polar-culinary-el nino.
I’ve cooked a hell of a lot of crap. Just looking through the epic archives here all the way back to my duck chimichunag disaster and failed BBQ’s. But it’s all gone in, stored and adapted, I feel I am some point now where I can make some bits of food that I consider good enough…I’m hard work to please.
Certain things have stuck with more than others..mainly sous vide, charing & fire.
There is something wonderful about a slowly burnt squash, it takes on such a sweet creamy taste, with a wonderful smooth texture…but with a bit of a crisp tang of burn now and then…
Tonight I’m pairing wonderful burnt squash-mash with a quick-fake aged steak. Basically you just get a steak, cover with salt and fish sauce and leave in the fridge for about a day, this gives you a cheap aged feel to the steak.
Ideally I would cook the steak on fire, on wonderful charcoal, but it’s sooooo much effort getting a fire together just for a steak, even though it tastes like Noels Houseparty (good)
I currently use a cast iron ridge pan, left on the hob for 10 minutes, when the house is completely full of smoke it is ready to go.
My Idol, my mentor, my god is Francis Malman. His love of fire stuck with me. He always says when meat comes into contact with heat, pop it down and leave it. Don’t fiddle, dont faddle..dont flip. Just leave the fucking things along. When it is ready to turn it will raise itself away from the pan leaving a glorious char.
And rest, always rest.
And here we go. In my new wonderful bowl. On top I have placed some chutney made from garlic, onion and chilli cooked slowly in rum.
It tastes like a proper thing. Wonderful sweetness, a tangy burn, a warmth. Well rounded and delicious. This is one for the menu, for the current colection.